World Traveler

South of Lima visitors will find much of the same coastal desert that surrounds the capital city, but there are many exciting and worth-while stops within the lowlands. This area was the homeland of several extraordinary ancient civilizations, most notably the Nazca–today, the south coast of Peru is still as wild and mystifying as it was during pre-historic times.

Pisco
This small town shares its name with the delightful brady-like ingredient in the national cocktail pisco sour. The area around Pisco is easy to travel around, and easily acts as a great home-base for exploring the incredible wildlife of the Islas Ballestas and Paracas Pennisula. Interestingly, Pisco was also home to the highly-advanced Paracas culture and was a base for Peru’s revolutionary action in the 1800s.

Though small, there’s much to do in Pisco. The Plaza de Armas is a great starting point. Located in the central part of town, the plaza currently plays host to several nightclubs and up-scale Peruvian restaurants. Pisco’s local cemetary, located very near the plaza, is the focus of many ghostly tales and legends. However, never walk alone at night, even in town.

Reserva Nacional de Paracas is by far the best attraction in Pisco. The reserve consists of a vast desert peninsula that is home to number of exotic land and sea animals. Besides the ubiquitous flamingos, enormous jellyfish, crabs, and other sea life are abundant around the peninsula. In addition, the reserve also has a wonderful musuem and accompanying ancient ruins. The Museo JC Tello has a frightening collection of trepanned skulls (skulls that show evidence of an ancient medical therapy where chunks of the bone were removed to relieve brain swelling). Just in back of the small visitor center are the ruins of the Paracas Necroplis. Many burials have been uncovered here, and the site itself is worth a peek.

Islas Ballestas is one our favorite sights in Pisco. Many tour agencies in town offer the necessary boat trip out to the islands. Once out near the islands, your tour will focus on the fantastic array of wildlife that clings to the rocky shores. Sea lons, pelicans, Humboldt penuguins, and cormorants are easy to spot, and you might catch a gimpse of the flamingos. After an hour or so or puttering around the spectacular rock formations and their accompanying animals, your tour guide will likely point our the Candelarba geoglyph on the long boat ride back to shore. The glyph is the object of much local speculatoin, and many experts and visitors connect the figure to the Nazca lines. Either way, the glyph makes for excellent pictures.

Most traveling along the southern coast stay overnight within the relatively safe confines of central Pisco. Hostal Los Inkas Inn is our favorite home-away-from-home. This tiny hostel has basic but clean rooms, a nice swimming pool, and good views from the rooftop. If you’re looking for a more modern hotel, the Embassy Beach Hotel has all the amenities of a moderate western hotel.

After exploring the desert and checking into your hotel, you’ll be ready for a good local meal. Restaurante La Catedral is the most reliable cafe in town. Many locals eat here, and the seafood and vegetables are well cooked and fresh.

Peru is diverse and impressive country to explore. This is Day One of a fourteen-day series of posts exploring the history, attractions, and culture of the ‘Land of the Incas.’

Day One: Lima’s Colonial Treasures

Many visitors to Peru’s capital city at first find a huge, nerve-wracking, and polluted city bordered by dangerous shantytowns.
Located in the center of Peru’s desert coastline, almost one third of Peru’s population now live in Lima. Many of the city’s inhabitants come from poorer areas of the country in an effort to find a better and more prosperous life. Jobs are scarce, and many end up living in untidy shantytowns and selling anything from chewing gum to jewelry to survive. Lima’s climate from May through December is dominated by a constant cloud of coastal fog. When the sun does emerge during Peru’s short summer, Lima’s buildings and streets still have a decidedly gray color from the overwhelming mist. Lima’s beaches are always overcrowded and littered, and traffic always races through the small streets furiously.

Don’t let Lima’s first impression turn you away! However unattractive Lima may at first appear, the city is well worth exploring. Despite it’s frightening facade, Lima is full of hospitable people, some of the best restraunts on the continent, fascinating history, and superb nightlife.

Founded in 1535 by Francisco Pizarro, Lima still has a distinct colonial charm. Lima has enough museums, churches and monasteries, and spectacular colonial homes to keep a tourist busy for weeks. Here are some of the historic highlights:

Museo de la Nacion
One of the largest and most comprehesive museums, Museo de la Nacion offers exhibits on Peru’s extensive prehistory. It has reconstructions of Peru’s most famous ruins and three floors of cultural treasures. Be sure to see the impressive Chavin stone carvings.

Plaza de Armas
Set in the heart of Lima, this square plaza holds several beautiful history structures. La Catedral is the most dominating feature. The original was constructed in 1555 but was built in its present version in 1764 after a string of major disasters. The inside a bit gloomy, but is worth exploring; keep your eye out for the coffin of Francisco Pizarro. The San Francisco monastery is another good stop around the Plaza. The monastery is best-known for its extensive (ans creepy) catacombs. Over 70,000 previous residents of Lima are buried underneath the early colonial church, and tours of the bone-strewn tunnels are thrilling.

Peru is diverse and impressive country to explore. This is Day One of a fourteen-day series of posts exploring the history, attractions, and culture of the ‘Land of the Incas.’

Day One: Lima’s Colonial Treasures

Many visitors to Peru’s capital city at first find a huge, nerve-wracking, and polluted city bordered by dangerous shantytowns.
Located in the center of Peru’s desert coastline, almost one third of Peru’s population now live in Lima. Many of the city’s inhabitants come from poorer areas of the country in an effort to find a better and more prosperous life. Jobs are scarce, and many end up living in untidy shantytowns and selling anything from chewing gum to jewelry to survive. Lima’s climate from May through December is dominated by a constant cloud of coastal fog. When the sun does emerge during Peru’s short summer, Lima’s buildings and streets still have a decidedly gray color from the overwhelming mist. Lima’s beaches are always overcrowded and littered, and traffic always races through the small streets furiously.

Don’t let Lima’s first impression turn you away! However unattractive Lima may at first appear, the city is well worth exploring. Despite it’s frightening facade, Lima is full of hospitable people, some of the best restraunts on the continent, fascinating history, and superb nightlife.

Founded in 1535 by Francisco Pizarro, Lima still has a distinct colonial charm. Lima has enough museums, churches and monasteries, and spectacular colonial homes to keep a tourist busy for weeks. Here are some of the historic highlights:

Museo de la Nacion
One of the largest and most comprehesive museums, Museo de la Nacion offers exhibits on Peru’s extensive prehistory. It has reconstructions of Peru’s most famous ruins and three floors of cultural treasures. Be sure to see the impressive Chavin stone carvings.

Plaza de Armas
Set in the heart of Lima, this square plaza holds several beautiful history structures. La Catedral is the most dominating feature. The original was constructed in 1555 but was built in its present version in 1764 after a string of major disasters. The inside a bit gloomy, but is worth exploring; keep your eye out for the coffin of Francisco Pizarro. The San Francisco monastery is another good stop around the Plaza. The monastery is best-known for its

The northern desert coast of Peru is our final destination on our armchair-style Latin American vacation. The north coast is a dramatic stretch of spectacular beaches, blue ocean, jagged cliffs, and seemingly endless sand dunes. Beautiful fertile valleys follow the many rivers that flow from the Andes to the ocean, creating a striking and recurring juxtaposition between the stark desert and lush greenery as you drive up the Pan-American Highway. The coastline is also dotted with innumerable ruins and archaeological sites, including the well-known remains of Chan Chan and Huacas del Sol y de la Luna.

Barranca
The small city of Barranca, located about 200km north of the capital city, is worth a stay. Barranca is full of friendly locals, great cafes, and is a short hop away from several great sights. The journey on the Panamericana north to Barranca is not nearly as pleasant as the city itself, however. The highway often skirts dangerously along towering ocean cliffs, and taxis and busses race along the highway chaotically at all hours of the day and night.

The ancient temple of Paramonga is easily accessed via taxi or local bus, and is a great example of Chimu and Inca architecture. The temple is quite large, and visitors are allowed to walk around and in the entire multi-story construction. Local festivals like Inti Raymi are often held in the field below the site, and are particularly dramatic with such a historic backdrop. Caral is another impressive (and somewhat controversial) monument to visit. The road to Caral is very rough, and a taxi ride there can be expensive and lengthy. We recommend taking a local tour from Lima if possible. Caral is billed as evidence of the oldest civilization in all of South America. The site itself is very large, and hols several complexes, temples, altars, and amphitheaters. Many of the pyramids and temples have been reconstructed, and it’s thrilling to walk up the stairs of such an ancient structure.

Hotel Chavin is the best (and one of the only) hotels in town. The restaurant inside has good local food and great pisco sours, and the cafe downstairs has great espresso and ice cream. The rooms are comfortable, even if a big retro. Our favorite place to eat outside of the hotel is Las Gaviotas, a small cafe on the beach. Las Gaviotas has fantastic traditional and local food, and an up-close view of the cliffs and ocean.

Casma
This small town is interesting only for the nearby archaeological sites of Sechin and Chanquillo. Busses travel to Casma from Barranca several times a day. Sechin is one of Peru’s most well-known archaeological sites. The walls of the main temple have incredibly graphic and strange carvings of warriors and their enemies fighting and dying. There are several rather realistic depictions of headless bodies and unfortunate captives. Be sure to check out the tiny on-site museum and the fantastic half-carved unfinished stones in the main stand of trees. The fortress of Chanquillo is lesser-known and even less visited than Sechin, but is well worth the journey and the hike up the large hill. The fortress consists of several towers and a confusing maze of concentric walls mean to keep intruders out. The mysterious towers in the dunes below the site are even more captivating–expers speculate the towers may have been used for astrological record-keeping.

Hotel Los Poncianos is the most pleasant, and safest, place to stay in Casma. It’s 1950’s atmosphere well-preserved, the hotel has a huge swimming pool and comfortable rooms. There’s also a make-shift ‘zoo’ that is a bit creepy. The owners speaks great english and is a helpful host.

Trujillo
The city of Trujillo, a historic political hotbed, has a great atmosphere and fun attractions. The city still has a distinctive colonial feel, and the Plaza de Armas is a good place to view several historic mansions and churches. The cathedral on the square has a great deal of colonial-era art, the nearby Iglesia de la Compania is interesting, and the Hotel Libertador is housed in a fantastic old mansion.

Although there are several museums in town, the Museo Cassinelli is one of the few with worthwhile exhibits. The museum is an impressive private archaeololgical collection, and has hundreds of well preserved artifacts and ceramics. Real Hotel is a fun place to stay the night; the rooms are open and inviting, and the staff and overall atmosphere is bright and happy. If you’re looking for more high-end accomodations, however, try the Hotel Libertador. The hotel has a bar, coffee shop, beautiful rooms, good views from most of the rooms, and a nice sauna. Restaurant Romano is one of the oldest places to dine in town, and is popular with both visitors and locals.

Chan Chan is the main attraction for travelers in Trujillo. The largest pre-colombian city in the Americas, Chan Chan once held over 50,000 residents and a large stash of gold, silver, and art. Although much of it’s former glory has been destroyed by the elements and looters, the complex is fascinating and makes for a great tour. Also near Trujillo, the Temples of the Sun and the Moon are incredibly large ancient structures that are fantastic to visit.

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Ayacucho
Ayacucho is one of the more well-known Andean cities. Colonial-era buildings and churches dominate the city’s atmosphere, and there are great activities and attractions all around the area. Like Huancayo, Semana Santa is a great time to visit and witness the local celebrations. The week before Easter Sunday has long been considered the region’s most exciting and diverse festival by travelers. The parades around town are quite large throughout the week, and culminate on Sunday evening with fireworks and feasting. In addition, tourists can find particularly fine arts and crafts shows and local music concerts during this time of year.

As usual, the Plaza de Armas is the center of town. The large cathedral overlooking the plaza was built in colonial times, and is fantastically ornate both inside and out. The cathedral has a religious-oriented art museum within the structure itself. Several other colonial-era churches still stand within the city; Ayacucho has over 35 historic churches that are open for tourists. There are also several old mansions and Spanish homes in town that are worth a peek.

The Museo de Arte Popular has ancient jewelry, tapestries, ceramics, and woodcarvings on display. A number of ‘before-and-after’ photographs are on display showing how the city has changed over the past 100 years. The Museo Argueologico Hipolito Unanue is another wonderful museum. Located within the Centro Cultural Simon Bolivar at the Ayacucho University, the museum has an interesting collection of local ancient mummies, ceramics, skulls, and other artifacts.

The Hotel Santa Rosa is our favorite place to stay overnight in Auyacucho. Very close the center of town, the hotel has beautifully kept gardens and large, comfortable rooms. Most rooms include a television, fridge, and large private bathrooms. There’s a neat little restaurant in the hotel the serves local fare for a great price. The El Nino is an excellent restaurant for dinner or lunch. El Nino specializes in local dishes and traditional Peruvian food. Ayacucho is also well-known for it’s local arts and crafts. Santa Ana Barrio is the most famous area for local crafts. Workshops are held regularly here, and also all types of local products can be purchased here from local artisans.

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The central Peruvian Andes offer some of the most adventurous and enjoyable traveling in the country. The central highlands are both spectacular and relatively under-explored by tourists. Most people come to Peru to look at the most famous highlights and never venture into these lesser-known areas full of beautiful lakes, enormous mountains, fertile valleys, and tiny down-to-earth towns. Regardless, the lucky travelers that do venture into this area will find great accommodations and sites, and friendly locals.

San Pedro de Casta
This small, and relatively high, village houses the interesting archaeological site of Marcahuasi. The site is most known for its carved sculptures of various animals. It takes four hours to hike on foot to the site, but horses can be hired in town for the quick journey. You can camp at Marcahuasi, but other accommodations are hard to come by in San Pedro. Tarma is a much better overnight stop. Tarma is located a short four-hour bus ride from Lima, and is a relatively safe pleasant little town. The area itself has been occupied since the Spanish conquest, but nothing visible remains of that era.

Tarma is quite well known for its boisterous festivals and celebrations that occur periodically throughout the year. The largest annual event occurs at Easter. Many parades snake throughout the company town, some even after dark. The largest procession is on the morning of Easter Sunday, but be sure to book your hotel ahead of time for the holiday. El Senor de los Milagros is another annual celebration. This fiesta occurs the last two week of October, and also has spectacular parades throughout the area.

Hacienda La Florida is our favorite place to stay in town. Although located a few miles outside Tarma, this complex is wonderful old hacienda. The rooms all have private bathrooms and are very quiet. Some meals are available at a reasonable price on site, and the farm classes or workshops are well worth the money if you’re a ‘city person.’ If you have children, Lost Portales might be a better option as this hotel has a large playground and cable television. Restaurant Senorial is the most atmospheric and cheery place to grab a meal. The traditional dishes here are the best choice.

Just a few miles outside of Tarma is the famous religious site El Senor de Muruchuay. This sanctuary is built around a rock carving of Christ crucified, and local legend says the carving appeared miraculously. A few more miles outside of Tarma, you’ll find the Gruta de Guagapo. This huge limestone cave can be explored with local guides, but does require good gear and prior experience. If you aren’t a spelunker, there’s not much here to be seen.

Huancayo
This strange town is a lot of fun if you can make it past the initial shock of seeing what appears to be a slice from some of the busiest, most chaotic, streets in Lima. Huacayo is modern and bustling, and a severe contrast to most of the sleep villages in the area. Regardless, the culture and sights here are well worth visit.

The heart of town is Cerro de la Libertad, a popular and trendy area of the city. Many cute shops are located here, and most of the restaurants here are great. You can often buy local artwork here on the weekends. Parque de la Identidad Huanca is another great place to get feel for the local spirit; this beautiful park has neat statues and models of local buildings to explore. The only real museum in town is the Museo Salesiano. The museum has information and examples of local plants and animals, and some archaeological exhibits. Much as in Tarma, you’ll find locals celebrate many holidays and religious occasions here with zeal. Semana Santa, or the week before Easter Sunday, is the biggest celebration. The markets in town, although largely filled with produce and animals, are a interesting site, and on weekends you might find a few wonderful handicrafts from surrounding villages.

Hostal El Marquez is an elegant little hotel with beautifully decorated rooms, great staff, and a good little restaurant. If you’re traveling for romantic reasons, the suites here are perfect for honeymooners and couples.

The most famous hiking path in South America, and likely one of the top of many hiker’s dream lists, is the Inca Trail. The trail is basically the path between the Sacred Valley and Machu Picchu. The total distance of the trail is about 33km, but most complete the journey in four days due to the difficulty of the trail. The path itself is steep and sometimes rather treacherous–it goes over three passes and over and around several peaks. Regardless of the difficulty, the journey is completed by several thousand experienced and un-experienced trekkers every year–the experience and sights of the trail make most forget their aching muscles and sore feet. Throughout the trail, hikers enjoy views of spectacular mountains, tiny picturesque villages complete with wooly llamas, and several archaeological sights.

How to Prepare
Tours and guided groups hike the trail all year, except when the path is closed for cleanup in February (please remember not to contribute to this already massive cleanup effort by leaving litter or graffiti on the trail). However, most travelers prefer to experience the hike during the drier months from March to December. During the rainy season, the trail can be more treacherous than usual and fog often obscures the best views. Unfortunately, the driest months (July and August) are also the coldest months. Temperatures can often drop well below freezing at night, so pack accordingly.

Speaking of packing, be sure to bring two pairs of strong and comfortable hiking shoes, lots of clothing you can layer, sunscreen, two flashlights, and a first aid kit. Sleeping bags and tents can be rented in Aguas Calientes or Cuzco, but many trekkers prefer to pack their own gear. If you do bring your own stuff, make sure your sleeping bag is rated for very cold temperatures. Hiking sticks with metal tips are not allowed on the trail, so bring your own wooden stick or buy a locally made one there.

Bring food! There is virtually nowhere to buy any food for the whole 33km. You can find some bottled drinks in a few of the villages, but bring plenty of healthy snacks. Most tours serve great food at meals, but you’ll be on your own the rest of the time.

Tours and Groups
Because the trail is so popular, be sure to book your accommodations and tour several months in advance. By law, you must travel with a tour or licensed and registered guide. If you want to have a more private or small tour, you must book a trip with an independent guide. You must carry your actual passport as well. The average price for a good tour is around US$325. This price typically includes meals, a tent, porters, a ticket to enter the ruins themselves, and the train ride back down to Cuzco. However, when selecting a tour company, be sure to find out how many people sleep in the tents, how many porters will be available and what you are expected to carry, and if there are any extra fees or expenses you’ll be responsible for during the hike. Side note: always carry a little cash on you during the hike to tip the guide or buy bottled drinks at stops.

As with all your travels in Peru, watch your stuff and be wary of theft. Bring your packs and gear into the tent at night. Medical facilities are nowhere close to the trail, so bring plenty of any medications you take and be careful and vigilant while hiking.

The Inka Trail Itself
After departing near the small town of Chilca, the first archaeological site you’ll come across is Llactapata. Afterwards, the trails heads south to the beautiful town of Wayllambamba. Most tours camp here the first night, and the snow covered peak of Nevado Veronica is clearly visible. After crossing a somewhat rickety wooden bridge the next morning, you’ll climb very steeply up through a forest alongside the Rio Llullucha. Stepping stones and stairs help you across the water, but be cautious about the rock being a bit slippery.
Most group spend the second night camping high at Llulluchupampa. Really just a stark mountainside, the temperatures drop quite low here. Heading steeply back downhill, the trail next passes through Paq’aymayo (some groups camp here the second night). Again climbing, you’ll come to the ruins at Runkurakay. The ancient round building here offers some great views and photo opportunities.
After climbing further, you’ll pass two small lakes and go over a high pass. Afterwards, you’ll pass another small lake and then come to the ruin of Sayaqmarka, which translates to Dominant Town. The complex here is fascinating and again has wonderful views of the surrounding wilderness. A few groups camp here overnight. After a gentle climb, you’ll reach the restored ruin of Phuyupatamarka. The site contains a series of ceremonial baths similar to those you’ll see at Machu Picchu, but here the basins have water running through them. Some groups camp here on the last night of the trail.
After hiking jarringly down a seemingly endless flight of hundreds of ancient stone stairs, you’ll pass the site of Winay Wayna and continue through forest until the Sun Gate. This is where many groups gather extremely early opening in the morning to watch the sun rise over the mountains. Finally, an hour later you’ll arrive triumphantly at Machu Picchu.

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Lying within easy traveling distance of Cuzco is one of Peru’s most famous tourist destinations, the impressive Inca fortress Machu Picchu. The ‘city of Incas’ is probably even South America’s most coveted archaeological attraction. The ancient city sits high in the mountains, and is particularly interesting because it is relatively pristine and intact–the site itself was never found by the invading Spaniards and was largely untouched until the early 1900s.

Despite constant studies dating back to the time of it’s rediscovery by Hiram Bingham in 1911, the history and purpose of the compound remains a fascinating mystery. Some experts and scholars believe the citadel was a royal vacation palace, while others are convinced the structures actually represent an effort by the Inca to rekindle their dying culture in the final years of the empire. Either way, the incredible stonework and craftsmanship at the site is evidence the compound was of some great cultural significance to the Inca.

The site is open from dawn till dark. Many tours from Cuzco visit the site, but many travelers also visit on their own. However, keep in mind you are not allowed to carry large or bulky backpacks, food, or drinks into the ruins. There is no official visitor center, but tickets to the Machu Picchu Historical Sanctuary can be purchased in neighboring Aguas Calientes or through a Cuzco tour agency. Also, the Museo de Sitio Manuel Chavez Ballon is a nice place to get maps and information about the site.

Once you actually enter the complex compound and it’s confusing passageways, keep an eye out for a few buildings and areas that you shouldn’t miss. The Hut of the Caretaker of the Funerary Rock is a bit morbid (mummification may have been performed here), and the nearby series of ceremonial baths is captivating and beautiful. Some of the most intricate stonework in the whole site is featured in the delicate looking Temple of the Sun. The tower may have been used for ceremonial and astrological purposes. The Temple of Three Widows has nice views of the Sacred Plaza. The main altar is the Intihuatana, located beyond the strange Sacristy. The small building called the Sacristy has many nooks and niches of all sizes, and an impressive stone bench; the building is especially known for the intricately cut rocks flanking it’s main doorway. The Intihuatana is a delicately crafted rock pillar that may have been used to predict the solstice, and is one of the few remaining such pillars because of the Spanish effort to smash the shrines.

Most people traveling to Machu Piccho stay in Cuzco or Aguas Calientes. Aguas Calientes sits in a large valley just below the famous ruins, and has many convenient hotels and tour guides. The aptly-named Hotel Machu Picchu Inn is comfortable and clean–we recommend making reservations ahead of time. Cafe Inkaterra is located in the Machu Picchu Pueblo Hotel, and is a quiet and calm place to go after a long day traveling. The foot is both traditional and modern, and the atmosphere is inviting and romantic.

If you want to stay at the ruins themselves, the Machu Picchu Sanctuary Lodge is one of your only choices. The hotel is often full, so book rooms ahead of time. All of the rooms have views of the ancient compound, and the staff is attentive. The in-house food is expensive but tasty.

The area around Cuzco offers opportunities for a multitude of outdoor adventures. Hiking, skiing, rafting, mountaineering, and mountain biking are just a few of the options. As I mentioned in my last post, the Inca Trail is one of the most heavily traveled hiking routes in the region. However, there are several other rewarding options if the Trail seems too daunting for this particular trip. Agencies in town offer trips to other Inca ruins such as Vilcambamba and Choquequirau. Hiking trips to Machu Picchu also also available. Many also come to Cuzco to hike to Peru’s highest peak, Ausangate.

We briefly discussed white-water rafting last post. Besides the often overcrowded Rio Urubamba, other rivers near Cuzco are also fun and challenging. The Rio Apurimac has several different routes; travelers can ride the rapids anywhere from two days to ten days. Camping is wonderful along the banks, and the scenery is a bit more pristine and remote than Rio Urubamba. If you are a skilled and experienced rafter, Rio Tambopata is an incredible option. The run begins high in the Andes mountains and ends at the Reserva Nacional Tambopata in the rainforest. Although quite a demanding expedition, the scenery is wild and remote and wildlife is easily seen. Keep in mind that kayaking is often an option for many of the nearby rivers; ask your agency or guide of choice what routes would be best for your experience level.

Horseback riding is becoming increasingly popular in Cuzco. Most local agencies can arrange a full or half-day ride around the area. Riding is a great way to see both the Andes and the jungle, and several archaeological sites. Bird-watching is another blooming attraction; local agencies offer nice bird-watching trips all around Cuzco, and there are an enormous number of species to be spotted.

Mountain biking is another wonderful way to see Cuzco. Many companies in town rent bikes, but travelers will often haul their favorite equipment in if they’ve planned an elaborate trip. There are both short and long trips available all around the Sacred Valley (the route from Moray to Calca is particularly popular). There are many trips available in the jungle itself, but be careful to choose a reliable agency and guide who have experience in more remote areas. Skiing is quickly becoming more popular as well–if you’re experienced, you can attempt to ski several of the peaks in the area, although there are currently no official skiing areas.

The traditional festivals and events that are celebrated regularly in the area another strong attraction for many travelers. Inti Raymi is one of the most notable festivals. Held on June 24, the whole town celebrates and dances in the streets. Parades of all sizes meander throughout town, and the holiday ends with a spectacular reenactment of the Inca winter-solstice festival. The Santuranticury Crafts Fair on December 24 is a less-known event, but is host some of the most skilled artists and craftsman in the area.

By far the best hotel in town is Novotel Cusco. The medium sized establishment is a bit expensive, but you can maximize the personal experience by choosing either a contemporary room or a colonial-era room. Every room is different, and the staff is very attentive. Some of the most interesting places to eat in town pair great local food with a traditional dinner show. El Truco is a good option; Don Antonio also has great shows and dancing.

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Cuzco and the surrounding area are one of the most popular destinations for most travelers and tourists to Peru. The city itself has many cultural and outdoor attractions, while the relatively close city of the Incas, Machu Picchu is one of the most popular tourist sites.

Cuzco
The city itself, once one of the grandest in the Inca empire, is now one of the most popular of the Peruvian tourist empire. This strange dichotomy is clear even in the architecture of the city; one cannot help but be struck by the strange juxtaposition of ancient structures to new and trendy restaurants and hotels. Cuzco has a rich and complex history, of which I am only beginning to understand. Most notably, the legend of the founding of the city states that the famous Inca ruler Manco Capac created Cuzco on orders from the gods.

As is normal with most Peruvian cities, the Plaza de Armas is the best starting point for exploring. In Inca times and presently, the central square was the epicenter of activity. The plaza is fairly safe to walk around, and most of the alleyways are quite beautiful. Some of the best cafes and restaurants in town are located along these streets. The Museo de Historia Natural lies just off the plaza, and has an interesting array of local artifacts and extensive flora and fauna exhibits. Although touring the museum won’t take long, it is a nice way to learn more about the natural environment around Cuzco.

Iglesia de la Compania de Jesus
This church is located on the edge of the Plaza de Armas and is also quite close to the aforementioned museum. Originally constructed in the mid 1500s, the imposing structure that stands today actually dates from a century after the initial construction due to natural disaster in the early 1600s. This is one of the city’s most elaborate churches, and a tour will take you through the fascinating underground catacombs and throughout the structure itself.

La Catedral
Also located on the outskirts of the central plaza, the cathedral is actually an enormous repository of colonial-era art. Many paintings are located on the walls of the structure itself, most notably the oldest surviving painting in Cuzco, depicting the great earthquake of 1650 that brought down the Iglesia de la Compania de Jesus. The crucifix being carried by the frightened population in the work can actually be seen in the cathedral. The original wooden altar is still on display. If you are fortunate enough to schedule your travels during a religious holiday or cultural festival, the cathedral is often the focus of such seasonal activity. Otherwise, local worshippers attend regularly in the morning.

Museo Inka
A brisk walk uphill from the plaza into barrio San Blas will bring you to this small but visit-worthy museum. Housed in a spectacular home from the 1600s, the museum has the best local artifacts and information available on the Inca empire. The rooms of the ornate house hold an amazing amount of jewelry, pottery, other artwork, metal work, and mummies, and local weavers are often performing their mysterious craft in the courtyard. Museo de Arte Precolombino is located with another beautiful mansion, although dating from the late Spanish colonial era. The museum has several great exhibits on many of the country’s ancient civilizations, including the Nazca.

Qorikancha
South of the Plaza de Armas, you’ll be rewarded with the Inca ruins of Qorikancha in the barrio Avenida el Sol. The remnants of the one of the most spectacular Inca temples still remain here. In ancient times, the temple located here was literally lined with gold sheets, and many religious rites appear to have take place here. The visitor center and available tours should be one of your top priorities while visiting Cuzco. The church currently located on this site is Iglesia de Santo Domingo. The church is quite interesting in that colonial paintings are still well-preserved on the outside walls while the remains of the Inca temple are still visible inside. The Museo del Sitio de Qorikancha is also worth a brief visit to get more information on the site.

Much like Arequipa, Cuzco offers a stunning array of exciting outoor activities. The famous (or infamous) Inca Trail is what many experienced hikers travel to the area for. We recommend talking with an established travel agency about the available routes along the trail, the experience and equipment necessary for the journey, and the time required. The best time of year to attempt the Trail is from about June till August, during the height of the dry season. Clouds and mist dominate the routes much of the time throughout the year. Andean Treks is a local established business that has some of the best guides and nicest equipment for the journey. White-water rafting is another draw for many outdoor adventurers. The Rio Urubamba offers a relatively safe trip as well as a chance to see some significant Inca ruins. There are many more challenging routes and tours available, and Amazonas Explorer is a good agency to find professional guides and tours for more difficult routes.

Come back soon! We’ll continue our discussion of Cuzco’s amazing outdoor offerings and activities tomorrow!

cuzco,museo inka,

Lake Titicaca is our next stop as we travel from the southern tip of Peru up the eastern border. Lake Titicaca will undoubtedly be one of the most memorable destinations on your travels in Peru. The lake is situated at a relatively high altitude, and the clarity of the cloudless atmosphere in the area is striking. Besides the water itself, there are many interesting archaeological sites, diverse towns, and history to explore while in the area. Here are some suggestions on where to base your exploration of the area from:

Puno
This port is our favored home-based for exploring the Lake Titicaca area. Although at times stiflingly busy, the overall atmosphere of the town is fascinating. Most of the local women walk the streets still clothed in highly traditional dresses and hats, and throughout Peru Puno is known for it’s often bizarre folklore. Many holidays and feasts occur throughout the year, and much of the population believes strongly in witchcraft and other ancient legends. Modern technology has flourished in this environment; you’ll find many tapes and DVD’s available documenting strange stores and dances.

As usual, the Plaza de Armas is a good place to start a tour of town. Although rather plain, the elaborate Casa del Corregidor, one of Puno’s oldest mansions, sits on the edge of the square. A few minutes outside of town is Huajsapata Park, where historically famous Manco Capac is said to have been born. The park also has a beautiful view of town.

Though relatively expensive, Hotel Libertador Isla Esteves is our favorite place to stay the night in Puno. The hotel is actually built on a private island on the lake, so the entire building has stunning views of the lake and surrounding shores. Restaurant Don Piero, though not as striking on the outside as some of it’s competition, has excellent local fare and is a local favorite for dinner.

Juliaca
Juliaca is quite a contrast to the calmness of Puno. The town hosts an airport and acts as a commercial junction for much of the area, but offers little in the way of tourist sites or activities. However, the town is located close to the lake and to neighboring villages and towns. If you’re looking for a no-nonsense home-base, try the Hostal Don Carlos. The rooms, though spartan, are clean and comfortable, and the owners are quite accommodating.

Lampa
Lampa is more similar to Puno in that is boasts an overwhelmingly charming atmosphere. The town is known locally for its light-pink structures and is often called the Rose City. Many visitors come to see the Cueva de los Toros, a cave shaped strikingly like a bull with well-preserved ancient carvings of animals. The large church in town, La Inmaculada, is also worth touring. A large domed tomb was constructed by a wealthy local citizen, and hundreds of Spanish skeletons were removed from the catacolmbs below to decorate the structure.

Lake Titicaca
Puno
Juliaca

As I mentioned briefly last post, outdoor activities of all kinds are widely available in Arequipa. Be it hiking, mountain biking, backpacking, camping, or rafting, the terrain surrounding the White City offers it all. What’s even better is that the majority of the most exciting activities are located quite close to the city (and therefore good food and lodging).

Hiking
The canyon lands around Arequipa are full of a range of hiking options. The established tour agencies in town can introduce you to good hiking guides, but if you have hiking experience and you stick to the well-known paths, you may not even need a guide. However, if you want to hike some of the more obscure routes, hire a reputable guide to be safe.

Canyon Del Colca is one of the most famous hiking destinations in the area. Surrounded by spectacular volcanoes, the canyon is rugged and deep. In fact, the canyon is one of the deepest in the world. Canyon Del Colca is spectacular both from the rim, and within the depths. The rim is often sunny and breezy, and wildlife is abundant. Cactus is common, and if you’re lucky enough to have traveled there from December through early May, chances are you’ll see many in bloom. Within the walls of the canyon itself, you can find more tropical vegetation like ferns.

Mountain Climbing
Arequipa is surrounded by spectacular mountains, most of which make for excellent mountaineering. Be wary of the signs of altitude sickness, and watch the often treacherous weather carefully. Volcano El Misti is one of the best in the area, and is as beautiful up close as it is from the central plaza. Although a relatively simple climb, you should still have some experience; ice is often present in many areas. The crater near the top is the destination of many climbers, and is quite a sight as it releases strange fumes while overlooking Arequipa. We recommend hiring a guide or tour, as the various routes up the volcano have a reputation for theft.

Another relatively easy but rewarding climb is Chachani. Again, ice is often present so pack your ax and crampons. Also, a guide or tour is again a good way to go. Sabancaya is another notable mountian. However, the volcano has been active quite recently and the spectacular crater is only accessible with a guide or via neighboring Nevado Ampato. Nevado Ampato is not to be confused with the extremely treacherous Navado Coropnuna, the highest in the Canyon Country. Mountain biking on the aforementioned peaks is also popular. Volcanoes Chachani and El Misti in particular both have great downhill routes.

White-Water Rafting
The Canyon Country features many opportunities for stellar white-water rafting and kayaking. Most routes are not available during the December through May rainy season due to the dramatic increase in local water levels. However, throughout the rest of the year, adventure tourists enjoy rafting several local rivers.

The Rio Chili is the most popular river, and is a good option for rafting newbies or travelers making only a short stop in Arequipa. Rio Majes is another good option, and offers stretches for both beginner and intermediate rafter and kayakers. There are a few other less-traveled routes, including the infamous Rio Colca, but if you choose one of these trips you’ll find many outfitters won’t even consider the trip (and if they do, it will be extremely costly).

Reserva Nacional Salinas Y Aguada Blanca is another fantastic outdoor destination near Arequipa. An enormous national reserve, the land plays host to rare vicunas, and their more common cousins alpacas and llamas. Flamingos can be viewed part of the year as well. The Toro Muerto Petroglpyhsare also a must-see. The site is comprised of thousands of strange black volcanic rocks and boulders intricately descorated with carvings of figures. You can see renderings of all types of animals and birds, and some humans. If you have even more time to explore the area, take time to visit El Valle De Los Volcanes. The valley lies west of the impressive Canyon del Colca, and is known for its spectacular rock formations. The historically active volcanoes in the area have created an expanse of strange lava flows all across the valley.

The best and most established outdoor outfitters in Arequipa are Colca Trek and Carlos Zante Adventures. Cola Trek organizes hiking adventures, mountaineering trips, mountain biking excursions, and rafting trips to all major sites. Their storefront also has a wider variety of outdoor equipment available for sale. Carlos Zarate Adventures is owned by an experienced guide with the same name, but be sure to book him ahead of time because he is often away on trips.

Side note: always check to make sure your guide of choice is actually legitimate. There are many trained and registered guides in the city, so don’t settle for one without proper ID.

canyon del colca
volcano el misti
Chachani
Nevado Ampato
Rio Chili
Reserva Nacional Salinas Y Aguada Blanca
Toro Muerto

Arequipa
Continuing on our southern journey, this incredible city is nestled in some of the most beautiful and fertile land in all of Peru. This is an area filled with archaeology, extensive history, wildlife, and outdoor destinations. The stunning volcano El Misti dominates the valley Arequipa is built in, and the city itself is often referred to as the “white city” because of the way the majestic colonial-era buildings of light volcanic rock sparkle in the sun. Arequipa is an ideal place for exploring the surrounding surreal natural landscape and taking part in exciting outdoor activities like hiking, rafting, and watching the famous condor in it’s natural habitat.

Arequipa’s history is long and complex. The first evidence of human habitation in the area dates back to pre-Inca times. The Spanish ‘re-founded’ the city in 1540. The city has been destroyed or devastated many times by earthquakes or other natural disaster: the volcanic eruptions of 1600 totally destroyed the city, and earthquakes in 1687, 1958, 1960, and 2001 left significant damage. Luckily, many beautiful colonial-era buildings have survived through the years.

Monasterio Santa Catalina
This much celebrated monastery is a prime example of the glittering colonial buildings that still exist in Arequipa. You can tour the monastery in an organized tour, or explore by yourself. The tour guides speak many languages and are often valuable since the monastery actually covers more than a city block. The architecture is amazing. Monasterio de la Recoleta is another beautiful monastery in town. Constructed by Fanciscan friars, the monastery boasts a wonderful Amazonian museum and an impressive collection of religious artifacts and art.

Plaza de Armas
As with most Peruvian towns, the central plaza is a must-see. Arequipa’s main plaza is the best place to view the volcanic rock architecture, and also boasts La Catedral. The cathedral dates back to the mid 1600s, and is enormous. The interior is much more diverse and interesting than many similar structures in the country, so it’s worth a peek. The cathedral is one of only 100 basilicas in the world that are allowed to fly the Vatican flag, and the marble accents in the interior are made of fine Italian marble. San Francisco church, though also damaged by the frequent earthquakes, is also beautiful.

Museo Historica Municipal
This local museum hosts an interesting collection of colonial paintings, historic documents, and other historic artifacts involving local history. Museo Arqueologico is equally small, but has great displays on obscure local archaeological sites.

La Hosteria is one of the best hotels in town; the colonial building surrounds a flower-filled courtyard, and the rooms offer all the modern amenities. Sambambaia’s is the most elegant and diverse restaurant in Arequipa; it always features live piano music and has a stellar Brazilian menu.

arequipa peru
volcano el misti
santa catalina monastery

Ica
Ica is our next destination South of Lima. Ica is the location of much of Peru’s pisco production. The higher, more sunny climate here is also refreshing compared to the rest of the coast.

Ica also boasts one of the best museums we’ve seen. The Museo Regional De Ica has enormous artifact collections from the Nazca, Inca, and Paracas civilizations. There are many mummies, skulls, shrunken heads, Nazca ceramics, and even a scale model of the Nazca Lines outside. Side note: don’t walk to the museum alone. Take a cab, and play it safe in Ica in general (the area does have quite a reputation of theft).

After several hours at the museum, take the afternoon to visit the celebrated wineries. Bodegas are always open for visitors, but if you want to see the grape harvest, visit from February until the end of March. Some of the finest pisco is produced at Bodega Ocucaje; as this winery is quite a distance out of town, we recommend taking an organized tour. Bodega Vista Alegre is much easier to visit, and is the largest of the local wineries. Bodega El Catador is also outside of town, but is worth the taxi ride. El Catador offers interesting free tours and pisco tastings throughout the year. If you can stomach it, visit during the harvest season and see wine pressing done by foot. It also has a decent restaurant with dancing in the evenings.

If there any time remaining on your visit, walk the streets around the central plaza and you’ll find several beautiful colonial mansions that are worth a photo. Hotel Hacienda Ocucajeis our favorite place to stay. Built by the aforementioned winery, this hotel is great for families, and offers all the modern amenities. Restaurant El Otro Penoncito has a wonderful menu of traditional Peruvian food, and has a delightfully strange atmosphere.

Huacachina
Huacachina is located just a few miles west of Ica, and is sometimes passed over by travelers because of it’s small size. However, the town makes for a relaxing stop. There’s a murky lagoon that is worth a visit, and many younger travelers come to try their hand at sandboarding down the surrounding dunes. Hosteria Suiza is a great place to stay; the large hotel and well-manicured garden are some of the most private and relaxed places in Huacachina.

Nazca
One of the most famous destinations for travelers in Peru, Nazca’s atmosphere and sites won’t disappoint you. The Nazca Lines attract thousands of tourists each year, and still remain one of the ancient world’s great mysteries. The extensive lines and figures include over 800 straight lines, 300 geoglyphs, and over 60 drawings of animals and plants. There are all manner of figures; you can see a lizard, a monkey, various birds, and a spider. The strange human-looking figure with a globe-shaped head is sometimes jokingly referred to as an astronaut, but most experts believe it is meant to represent a religious figure.

Of course, the Lines are best appreciated for the air. There’s a rickety observation tower, but we recommend taking a flight over the lines to truly appreciate the figures. Flights are usually in small aircraft throughout the day, but we recommend trying to get on an early morning flight to avoid turbulence. The costs of a flight vary, but most are around US$40 per person. The most reputable company in town is Aero Condor Peru. You can make reservations for Nazca flights in Ica or Lima.

Besides the Lines, Nacza holds a few other treasures. The Chauchilla Cemetery offers some chillingly up-close-and-personal views of ancient bones and mummies. The burials here date back to the Nazca culture, and have been nicely restored after being spread across the desert by grave robbers. Museo Didactico Antonini is great to visit prior to viewing the lines; you can find an enormous amount of information here on the origin of the Lines and the Nazca culture. Finally, Reserva Nacional Pampas Galeras is worth a visit. Located quite high in the mountains surrounding Nazca, its virtually the only place left in the country to still view the shy (and softer) cousins of alpacas, the vicuna. If you can, time your visit to the reserve during the shearing celebrations that occur every other year.

Hotel Alegria is a fun place to stay the night in Nazca; the hotel has a good restaurant, beautiful gardens, and a helpful and polite travel agency inside. Many languages are spoken here, and the rooms are clean and comfortable. Restuarant Los Angeles is a great place to eat if you choose to venture out of the hotel at night; the restaurant has both international and Peruvian fare.

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Nazca Peru,
Nazca Lines,
Huacachina

South of Lima visitors will find much of the same coastal desert that surrounds the capital city, but there are many exciting and worthwhile stops within the lowlands. This area was the homeland of several extraordinary ancient civilizations, most notably the Nazca–today, the south coast of Peru is still as wild and mystifying as it was during pre-historic times.

Pisco
This small town shares its name with the delightful brandy-like ingredient in the national cocktail pisco sour. The area around Pisco is easy to travel around, and easily acts as a great home-base for exploring the incredible wildlife of the Islas Ballestas and Paracas Peninsula. Interestingly, Pisco was also home to the highly-advanced Paracas culture and was a base for Peru’s revolutionary action in the 1800s.

Though small, there’s much to do in Pisco. The Plaza de Armas is a great starting point. Located in the central part of town, the plaza currently plays host to several nightclubs and up-scale Peruvian restaurants. Pisco’s local cemetery, located very near the plaza, is the focus of many ghostly tales and legends. However, never walk alone at night, even in town.

Reserva Nacional de Paracas is by far the best attraction in Pisco. The reserve consists of a vast desert peninsula that is home to number of exotic land and sea animals. Besides the ubiquitous flamingos, enormous jellyfish, crabs, and other sea life are abundant around the peninsula. In addition, the reserve also has a wonderful museum and accompanying ancient ruins. The Museo JC Tello has a frightening collection of trepanned skulls (skulls that show evidence of an ancient medical therapy where chunks of the bone were removed to relieve brain swelling). Just in back of the small visitor center are the ruins of the Paracas Necroplis. Many burials have been uncovered here with incredible tapestries and weavings.

The Islas Ballestas is one our favorite sights in Pisco. Many tour agencies in town offer the necessary boat trip out to the islands. Once out near the islands, your tour will focus on the fantastic array of wildlife that clings to the rocky shores. Sea lions, pelicans, Humboldt penguins, and cormorants are easy to spot, and you might catch a glimpse of the flamingos. After an hour or so or puttering around the spectacular rock formations and their accompanying animals, your tour guide will likely point out the Candelarba geoglyph on the long boat ride back to shore. The glyph is the object of much local speculation, and many experts and visitors connect the figure to the Nazca lines. Either way, the glyph makes for excellent pictures.

Most traveling along the southern coast stay overnight within the relatively safe confines of central Pisco. Hostal Los Inkas Inn is our favorite home-away-from-home. This tiny hostel has basic but clean rooms, a nice swimming pool, and good views from the rooftop. If you’re looking for a more modern hotel, the Embassy Beach Hotel has all the amenities of a moderate western hotel.

After exploring the desert and checking into your hotel, you’ll be ready for a good local meal. Restaurante La Catedral is the most reliable cafe in town. Many locals eat here, and the seafood and vegetables are well cooked and fresh.

pisco peru,
Reserva Nacional de Paracas,
Islas Ballestas,
Hostal Los Inkas