Attempting Surfing
Tuesday, February 5th, 2008Â
There really isn’t much call for surfing in London, none at all actually and that’s where I am from so I have never tried it. I don’t do sport in general (unless its dancing or shopping, that’s as sporty as I get!) Surfing is one of those sports that I just thought it looks easy and that I would naturally be an expert (I can hear those of you that surf laughing right now!) Anyway, I arrived in Bali, where everyone is surf crazy, and with the size of the waves plus the hot weather I see why.
There are loads of people on the beach offering surf lessons and board hire so I put myself down for an hour and a half lesson. First we practiced a little on the beach, that wore be out straight away and immediately I felt like I needed a cigarette break but I continued anyway.
I always joked that I would probably end up knocking myself out with my board and as soon as I got into the water I managed to hit myself on the head with it, luckily I didn’t do it so hard that I lost consciousness, it just hurt a lot! The water was filthy so I kept getting plastic bags and other rubbish attached to me, and the waves were huge so IU was half drowning at the same time. It wasn’t quite like I had imagined. Even laying on the board was hard to balance. I never got to stand but I was quite impressed with myself when I knee surfed.
After an hour and a half I was aching all over and had cuts on my feet and knees, I swallowed about a gallon of water and I was now dying for a cigarette! Very hard work. Al the muscles in my body ached for the next five days, talk about exercise! It was fun, but very very hard work!


